FASHIONDROBE
Yellow
From mustard to chartreuse to bright,
zingy lemon, yellow ran the gamut in New York. At Tibi, Amy Smilovic was
inspired by the photography of Julie Blackmon, whose pastel Fifties yellows she
found arresting enough to emulate; while at Sies Marjan, there were more of
the fizzy sherbet yellows that brought designer Sander Lak’s debut collection
such attention last season. Alexander Wang went all out
with highlighter pen neon and Thakoon favoured a more
muted mustard. It looks particularly fresh with statement gold earings
Deconstructed Shirting
Shirts have got fussy for spring
and Monse are partly responsible. The nascent brand, whose designers have
just been appointed atOscar de la Renta, made its name with straight-forward poplin shirts
but for spring they’ve cut them up, letting them slip off shoulders and
covering them with sequins. Elsewhere Carolina Herrera pushed down the
collars of her shirt dresses to expose the clavicle, Alexander Wang sent cropped and
wrap-around shirts down the runway with schoolboy boxer shorts, and the duo at
Tome covered theirs with ruffles.
Cut-outs
New York was entranced with peepholes
and cut-outs and no one executed the trend more snappily than Proenza Schouler. In one of the
best shows of the week, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez reworked their
signature knitted dresses with knotted peepholes at the chest and waist for a
look that was one part polished, one part oised.
Ruffles
They’re still going strong (see Tome, J
Crew and Adam Lippes) and got the full kitsch treatment at Altuzarra, covered in
Fifties cherries and embroidered pineapples. Jonathan Saunders also drew on
their enlivening powers for his first collection for DVF. Wear them with wrap-tie
sandals and prepare for a summer of endless Boomerang wiggles clogging up your
Instagram feed
Slip-on Shoes
New Yorkers are all wearing furry flats (Brother Vellies is the brand of
choice) on the streets this autumn but next spring they’ll be upgrading to
slip-ons of all shapes and sizes. At Sies Marjan slip-on
platforms added bite to hot pinks and yellows; at 3.1 Philip Lim they were
studded and metallic to fit the SoCal theme. Rag & Bone’s were white and
strapped and Tibi's were black and
with neat little cigarette lighter sized heels. Finally at Opening Ceremony the educational
presentation urging showgoers to vote was punctuated with back-to-school
stacked loafer mules with paintbox bright heels. All hail the new easy shoe.
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