FASHIONDROBE

 FASHIONDROBE

                               

Yellow

From mustard to chartreuse to bright, zingy lemon, yellow ran the gamut in New York. At Tibi, Amy Smilovic was inspired by the photography of Julie Blackmon, whose pastel Fifties yellows she found arresting enough to emulate; while at Sies Marjan, there were more of the fizzy sherbet yellows that brought designer Sander Lak’s debut collection such attention last season. Alexander Wang went all out with highlighter pen neon and Thakoon favoured a more muted mustard. It looks particularly fresh with statement gold earings

 

Deconstructed Shirting

Shirts have got fussy for spring and Monse are partly responsible. The nascent brand, whose designers have just been appointed atOscar de la Renta, made its name with straight-forward poplin shirts but for spring they’ve cut them up, letting them slip off shoulders and covering them with sequins. Elsewhere Carolina Herrera pushed down the collars of her shirt dresses to expose the clavicle, Alexander Wang sent cropped and wrap-around shirts down the runway with schoolboy boxer shorts, and the duo at Tome covered theirs with ruffles.

 

Cut-outs

New York was entranced with peepholes and cut-outs and no one executed the trend more snappily than Proenza Schouler. In one of the best shows of the week, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez reworked their signature knitted dresses with knotted peepholes at the chest and waist for a look that was one part polished, one part oised.

 

Ruffles

They’re still going strong (see Tome, J Crew and Adam Lippes) and got the full kitsch treatment at Altuzarra, covered in Fifties cherries and embroidered pineapples. Jonathan Saunders also drew on their enlivening powers for his first collection for DVF. Wear them with wrap-tie sandals and prepare for a summer of endless Boomerang wiggles clogging up your Instagram feed

 

Slip-on Shoes

New Yorkers are all wearing furry flats (Brother Vellies is the brand of choice) on the streets this autumn but next spring they’ll be upgrading to slip-ons of all shapes and sizes. At Sies Marjan slip-on platforms added bite to hot pinks and yellows; at 3.1 Philip Lim they were studded and metallic to fit the SoCal theme. Rag & Bone’s were white and strapped and Tibi's were black and with neat little cigarette lighter sized heels. Finally at Opening Ceremony the educational presentation urging showgoers to vote was punctuated with back-to-school stacked loafer mules with paintbox bright heels. All hail the new easy shoe.